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Sun, surf and Spanish splendor: An insider's playbook to 3 perfect days in Santa Barbara

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LA Post: Sun, surf and Spanish splendor: An insider's playbook to 3 perfect days in Santa Barbara
April 26, 2024
Nahal Garakani -

Santa Barbara is full of whitewashed stucco buildings, red tile roofs, and bright bougainvillea flowers. Its relaxed California vibe, mixed with Mediterranean charm, draws visitors in. This historic seaside city has been dubbed the “American Riviera” for good reason – think sensuous architecture, 50-plus miles of pristine beaches, lush mountains clad in live oaks and sycamores, bountiful vineyards, and a balmy Mediterranean climate. 

That captivating mix practically guarantees visitors days filled with beach bliss, outdoor adventure, and world-class wining and dining. With so much vying for your attention, a little insider guidance is key for making the most of a Santa Barbara sojourn. Here’s the playbook for penning a memorable three-day weekend rich in small-town hospitality, big-city sophistication, and Southern California sunshine.

Touch down mid-morning at Santa Barbara Airport. At just over 9 miles from downtown, SBA is the definition of convenience; no schlepping down the coast is required. Make snagging a rental car a top priority, essential for squeezing the most from your long weekend. Once mobile, plug Spanish Garden Inn into GPS for the 10-minute drive to check-in. Tucked on a quiet Montecito Avenue lined with historic adobes, this adults-only boutique hideaway wraps around an arbor-shaded central courtyard blooming with bougainvillea, birds of paradise, and fragrant citrus trees. Whitewashed casitas with private patios, outdoor fireplaces, and deep-soaking tubs provide quiet seclusion – the antithesis of boisterous beach resorts. Unpack, slip into the heated pool and unwind from travels before exploring Santa Barbara’s historic heart. 

El Presidio de Santa Bárbara, “The Fortress of Saint Barbara”, was established overlooking the Pacific in 1782, today California’s second oldest city after San Diego. Wander shady garden pathways around the grassy Presidio grounds, navigating two centuries of architecture spanning 18th-century adobes to stately homes built after catastrophic earthquakes. Next door, the Santa Barbara Mission, founded in 1786, provides another dose of local history, not to mention tranquil cloisters and profuse displays of roses and delicate succulents that epitomize the city’s Mediterranean landscaping. 

After perusing the past, embrace Santa Barbara’s vibrant present back downtown with sunset libations and dinner. Stroll State Street, stopping to browse hidden courtyards and indie boutiques wedged between historic theaters and red-brick malls. The shopping appetite will satiate rumbling stomachs at Toma Restaurant & Bar, a breezy European-style eatery with a knockout patio overlooking the harbor. Watch boats bob in the marina while grazing through a menu of grilled branzino with Meyer lemon butter sauce, porcini-mushroom ravioli bathed in brown butter, and fingerling potato gnocchi Parisienne. The sea-kissed setting softens sticker shock but dishes this expertly executed are worth a minor splurge.

After dinner, walk off carbs one block away along Stearns Wharf, Santa Barbara’s most-visited attraction since construction finished in 1872. Explore souvenir shops lining the pier before staking out the perfect spot to soak in a fiery sunset over endless Pacific horizons. As darkness descends, toast your arrival with award-winning spirits at Good Lion Cocktail Lounge or Intermezzo Bar Café. Just steps from the Biltmore Hotel, both retro-chic watering holes shake up first-rate martinis using small-batch liquors. Sip side-by-side with surfers and celebrities at the bar or make new friends playing Skee Ball in Intermezzo’s game room.

When morning dawns on Day Two, grab a quick bite nearby at Renaud’s Patisserie before hitting the beach. This French-inflected bakery-bistro facing State Street Plaza opens early for flaky chocolate croissants, sweet and savory crepes, and farm-fresh omelets ideal for fueling fun in the Southern California sun. Make the short drive to Leadbetter Beach, a family-friendly shoreline nestled below Shoreline Park with picnic tables, barbecues, and grassy lawns. Rent stand-up paddleboards or kayaks from Paddle Sports Center or just unfurl beach towels on golden sands. Leadbetter’s calm, shallow waters are ideal for kids, but surfers should drive five more minutes south to Butterfly Beach. Its offshore point break regularly churns out head-high waves along a tranquil cove backed by super shady Montecito estates.

After beaching to your heart’s content, break for lunch nearby at Lily’s Taqueria or Shoreline Beach Café. Both casual eateries dish up classic California-style Mexican comfort food and frosty margaritas just steps from Leadbetter. Refueled for round two, trade the sand for boutique browsing 10 minutes away in Montecito Village. Coast Village Road parallels the ocean through this affluent enclave peppered with sprawling estates owned by the likes of Oprah, Ellen DeGeneres and Prince Harry. Wander through the tony village, peeking through art galleries and upscale boutiques like K. Frank. This family-owned multi-label shop features niche contemporary labels like Ulla Johnson and Rebecca Taylor alongside premium denim and breezy basics that perfectly channel the Montecito lifestyle. 

Before the shopping spree gets out of hand, shift gears with an early dinner reservation at the iconic San Ysidro Ranch. Tucked high in the Montecito foothills, this 500-acre hideaway has hosted royalty and celebrities from Winston Churchill to Gwyneth Paltrow since opening its hacienda-style doors in 1893. Following extensive repair after the devastating 2018 mudslides, the Ranch endures as a beacon of low-key luxury focused on privacy and stellar service. That welcoming vibe carries through the Stonehouse Restaurant, overlooking citrus groves and fountains. Fire up Instagram for shimmering garden panoramas at sunset, then focus on expertly grilled meats, farm-fresh salads, and garden vegetables grown just steps away. Cap your evening with the crème brûlée prepared tableside, watching sugar caramelize under a handheld torch or warm beignets practically melting onto your tongue.

Your final day dawns for locally sourced wine sipping in Santa Barbara’s suddenly stylish Funk Zone. Once a gritty warehouse district, several blocks inland from Stearns Wharf are now dense with tasting rooms belonging to acclaimed area vintners. Park the car and unleash your inner oenophile, strolling along garden-lined thoroughfares like Yanonali Street and Gray Avenue, which link inviting watering holes. At the far west end facing the train tracks, Corks n’ Crowns pours an eclectic lineup of regional varietals alongside equally compelling cupcake and wine pairings dreamed up by their resident pastry chef. Further inland on Santa Barbara’s revitalized lower State Street, pay your respects to aerospace history at Area 5.1 Winery's quirky tasting room. Proprietor Jeff Strekas actually has his mother’s ashes sealed into a memorial rocket sculpture behind the bar, next to walls lined with space memorabilia and signed astronaut portraits. Though the décor may seem otherworldly, Jeff’s small-lot Rhone-style wines are utterly down-to-earth yet complex. Don’t skip his signature ‘Conspiracy Red’ blend or single-vineyard Grenache sourced from Santa Barbara’s happy canyons.

After getting happily buzzed, embrace the sea once more on an evening sail with the Santa Barbara Sailing Center. This 90-minute coastal voyage aboard the Double Dolphin catamaran departs before sunset, guaranteeing Insta-worthy moments watching a fiery ball slowly sink into the Pacific. If Lady Luck cooperates, glimpsing migrating whales or darting dolphins is practically guaranteed as the nimble boat skims along Santa Barbara’s rocky coastline. 

As dusk settles, disembark at Stearns Wharf with the short walk west to Brophy Bros Restaurant & Clam Bar for a seafood finale. An area institution since 1946 in Ventura, Brophy’s has perfected the lost art of harborfront dining across multiple waterfront locations. Revel in super-fresh fare hauled in daily from these fertile waters. Kick things off with cup after cup of creamy clam chowder followed by a decadent platter of raw and pan-fried oysters, cracked Dungeness crab, sweet bay shrimp, calamari, and potato-crusted whitefish. As you savor this final feast, raise that last glass of Sauvignon Blanc and toast a whirlwind weekend embracing everything that makes Santa Barbara shine. 

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